The World on a Plate

Whenever the world gets to me, I listen to music from the Eighties. So it is perfect that when I step into Bobbys Bistro on a holiday afternoon,Aerosmiths Janies Got A Gun is bouncing off its faux brick walls. Its not quite the sunny song, but the cosy ambience of the restaurant blackboard-topped tables for children to doodle on, stacks of coloured chalks that make for a refreshing centrepiece, handwritten notes on the walls, leather couches and a wooden beam ceiling throws a warm light of nostalgia over the lunch.

The view is not poetic though. The table is by a huge glass window that overlooks the road, but the watch-life-pass-you-by seating is marred by a blue metal wall and the lack of an arresting landscape.The menu is a pile of worn sheets clipped together on a board, and makes for tedious reading.

But the description of the dishes has a lovely lyrical thrust. The pumpkin, carrot and ginger soup with broccoli cream arrives in a bowl with finely shredded chicken seated at the centre and a green emulsion lacing its edges. The steaming soup is then poured at the table and the chicken gently rises to meet your spoon.

The toasted French baguette is crisp, slathered with pungent garlic and splodges of feta and chives that bully the garlic into submission. The lychee margarita, with supple mint sprigs and granular lemon chunks, whispers of spring, and cleans the palate after every meat-heavy dish that arrives at the table.The waiters hover but never intrude, and politely suggest that my companion and I try the buffalo wings.

The succulent chicken wrapped in a chilli-chocolate glaze is uproariously fiery and cooked to perfection. The sun-dried tomato, glazed onion and tri-cheese basil pasta is a riot of colours, and overpoweringly flavourful to make a mark, but the entree that is served next is impressive.The blushing-pink grilled salmon steak, drenched in house spice concoction, soya-tossed vegetables, paprika purple bundle and arancini mash frit, earns Chef Vinnarasan brownie points.

Its muscular, assertively tasty and good-looking, and we gush over the right-sized portion. The frit is a surprise its granular insides are stuffed with soft rice and mozzarella. The salmon slab is striated and the layers separate at the light touch of a fork without falling apart.

Dessert is panna cotta with a hearty berry compote, anda tower of sugary glaze with distinct Parisian touches. As I dip the spoon in, it quivers gently like the voice of Eurythmics singing that evergreen 80s hit Sweet Dreams Are Made of This. I hum along, contentedly.

Bobbys Bistro is located at 49, North Boag Road, Parthasarathy Puram, T. Nagar. A meal for two approximately costs Rs.

1,500. For details, call 6548 6548.

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